How to Protect Your Natural Hair Under a Wig

A wig is often called a protective style, but it only protects your hair if you look after what's underneath. Most people put all their care into the wig and forget about the braids, edges and scalp below it. This guide covers the simple habits that keep your own hair healthy while you wear wigs, and the warning signs most people miss.

Why it matters: traction alopecia

When hair is pulled tight over and over, it can start to thin, usually along the edges and temples first. Dermatologists call this traction alopecia. Tight braids, tight wig bands, glue that gets pulled off, and wearing the same style for months without a break can all cause it. Caught early, it often gets better once the pulling stops. Left too long, the damage to the hair follicles can become permanent. The good news is that it's very preventable.

1. Start with a gentle base

• Braid or cornrow loosely. If your braids hurt, cause bumps, or give you a headache, they're too tight. Ask your stylist to loosen them. Pain is not part of the process.
• Go easy on the edges. Leave the fine hairs around your hairline out of tight braids, or braid them very loosely.
• Moisturize before you braid. Clean, conditioned hair is stronger and breaks less.
• Use a wig cap to keep your braids flat and to stop the wig rubbing against your own hair.

2. Secure the wig without pulling

• Adjust the band so it's snug, not tight. If you have a red line or a sore spot when you take the wig off, loosen the straps.
• Try a silicone wig grip band to hold the wig in place without glue or extra tension.
• Glueless is gentler. If you use glue, never pull the lace off. Soften the glue with a remover first. Here's how to remove lace glue safely.
• Tie it down gently. When you lay the lace with an edge silk scarf, tie it firmly but not tightly, and only for the time the product needs to set.

New to wigs? A headband wig or a glueless wig puts the least stress on your hairline. Our Glueless Wig Install Kit has a wig cap, grip band, melt band, edge scarf and edge control in one.

3. Take care of your scalp and edges

• Keep your scalp clean. Sweat, oil and product build up under a wig. Clean your scalp and braids at least every week or two, more often if you work out.
• Moisturize your braids and edges a few times a week with a light, water-based leave-in or oil. Heavy products can clog and build up.
• Use edge products lightly. A little edge control goes a long way. Choose water-based or alcohol-free products, and wash them off instead of layering day after day.
• Don't scratch with nails. If your scalp itches, tap or pat it, or clean it. Scratching irritates the skin and loosens braids.

4. Take the wig off at night

Sleeping in a wig rubs and pulls at your hairline all night. Take it off, moisturize your braids, and sleep in a silk bonnet (or the long silk bonnet for longer braids). Silk means less friction, so less breakage. Put the wig on a stand to keep its shape.

5. Give your hair a break

• Don't keep the same braids in too long. Dermatologists suggest wearing these styles for no more than two or three months at a time, then switching to a looser style for a while.
• Give your edges a rest. Between installs, take a week or two in a low-tension style, like a loose puff or a satin scarf.
• Deep condition your own hair between installs, the same way you care for the wig.

Warning signs to watch for

• Pain, soreness or headaches after putting the wig or braids in
• Small bumps or pimples around the hairline
• Thinner edges or temples than before
• More broken hairs than usual when you take your braids down

If you notice any of these, loosen things up and give your hair a break. If your edges keep thinning, see a board-certified dermatologist. The earlier traction alopecia is treated, the better the results.

Shop the essentials

• Glueless Wig Install Kit: cap, grip band, melt band, edge scarf, brush and edge control
• Silicone Wig Grip Band
• Silk bonnets
• Edge Silk Scarf and Edge Control
• Headband wigs and glueless wigs: the gentlest wigs to wear

Want more? Read our glueless wigs for beginners guide and how to clean your wig.

This guide is general information, not medical advice. If you're worried about hair loss, please see a dermatologist.